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Winter Lemon
Gastronomics: How Chefs Learned to Monetize Veggie Pedigrees (nymag)
**It's true that money doesn't grow on trees, but it might just grow in the
ground.**
As the farm-to-table movement ramped up, so, too, did the idea of restaurants
printing their purveyors' names on menus as some sort of badge of locavore
honor. But what began as callouts to Lynnhaven goat cheese or Allan Benton
bacon have turned into ever-more-meaningless stamps like "market" and "local."
But even as the qualifying terms have become more vague, their ability to
increase a restaurant's bottom line has gone up.
Take this list of six dishes. Three are real dishes; three are satirical. Can
you tell the difference?
1. Raw diver scallops, market grapes and lemon verbena
2. Gratinized beet, hazelnut, baby greens and endive salad
3. Free-range rabbit with Oregon morels
4. Celery root risotto with rutabaga, Klug farm grapes, nasturtium, black
walnut
5. Market strawberries and juice with mint, lime, meringue, sour cream-poppy
seed sorbet
6. Fresh endive soup
The fake dishes -- 2, 3, and 6 -- are taken from menu recitations in _American
Psycho_, wherein Patrick Bateman gets served the likes of "radicchio with some
kind of free-range squid" or "peanut butter soup with smoked duck and mashed
squash." (The latter ...
Kraft Foods Contest Warm Winter Lemon Cake