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Casual to Cachet: How Chefs Flipped the Model for Restaurant Expansion (nymag)
**The space that is now Momofuku Ko quite literally evolved out of a noodle
shop.**
It used to be that expansion-minded chefs would make their names with haute,
fine-dining establishments, then branch out with more casual, more lucrative
restaurants: think Thomas Keller opening Bouchon after the French Laundry; Tom
Colicchio expanding Craft with Craftbar and 'wichcraft; Le Bernardin's Eric
Ripert lending his name to West End Bistro in Washington, D.C.; and Wolfgang
Puck opening a gazillion airport kiosks after Spago. In a lot of ways, the
offshoots are the food world's equivalent of pret-a-porter clothes; customers
get to experience the brand without paying the couture prices. But a new breed
of chefs and restaurateurs is flipping that equation, starting casual and
expanding into ever-more-extravagant digs. Led by chefs like Rich Torrisi and
Mario Carbone, Roy Choi, and (of course) David Chang, the strategy is working.
"We wanted to start small," says Torrisi Italian Specialties' Mario Carbone.
"That was kind of a necessary evil. We weren't going to start out with tasting
menus." Though Carbone and his partners have taken the success of Torrisi and
turned it into two new projects (the just-opened sandwich shop Parm, and ...
Pomegranate Puzzles and More Fun Stuff at Al's Hobby Shop